Wine of the moment

Stand to attention please!

The Feldmarschall has been a cult wine for several decades. Just goes to show what a 1000 metre high, south-facing single vineyard mountain site, Fenner, in Kurtatsch, South Tirol (and a lot of TLC) can do for that once maligned grape variety, Müller Thurgau. Originally believed to be a crossing from 1882 of Riesling and Silvaner (hence the synonym Rivaner), but actually Riesling x Madeleine Royale. Spicy, flinty, full of tension and excitement, with vibrant, intense yellw stone fruit and a white pepper finish.