Wine of the moment

(if your name is Axel Neiss): 1) wind – plenty of it, ideal for dring the grapes after a bout of rain to avoid those pesky cryptogammic diseases; 2) elevation – height brings slopes and cooler temperatures – just the ticket when temperatures rise; 3) stoney soil rich in limestone – great for water retention …

As if Italy did not have enough indigenous grapes, there is now a new white wine star, rising from the ashes like Phoenix. Timorasso. From small beginnings, Walter Massa re-energised this fascinating grape variety so that today 300 hectares are planted in the Colli Tortonesi (which is, rather strangely, called Derthona on many wines labels, …

That unmistakable label. An icon. And Schütt, an extraordinary site in Austria’s Wachau, for both Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, with cooling winds from the north giving herbal notes of dill despite the warmth of the 2018 vintage. A mix of apricot and marzipan with some white pepper intermingled with acacia honey. Complex, concentrated and poised, …

Everyone needs one: a house Champagne that is. Ours comes from brother and sister team, Nicolas and Clotilde Chuavet who are masters of the vineyards and cellar respectively, in Rilly en Champagne in the Montagne de Reims. Their Champagnes do not undergo malo and hence have citrus-fresh structure and longevity, yet without losing out on …

The Feldmarschall has been a cult wine for several decades. Just goes to show what a 1000 metre high, south-facing single vineyard mountain site, Fenner, in Kurtatsch, South Tirol (and a lot of TLC) can do for that once maligned grape variety, Müller Thurgau. Originally believed to be a crossing from 1882 of Riesling and …

When you have things to celebrate, then only top class sparkling will do. And this is where Germany is giving France a run for its money, especially when said sparkling comes from Volker Raumland, the bubble guru here in Riesling-land. Oops, sorry for being confusing, of course this Chardonnay Reserve is made from 100% Chardonnay …

Instead of the impenetrable tangle of indigenous varieties, this small 6 ha family winery (Son Prim) on the Pla de Mallorca plain in the middle of the island of Palma, has gone French. Who would expect to find a Blanc de Merlot (with an extraordinary 15.5% abv!) made by a winemaker from Uruguay on the …

Cabernet Franc, not quite „in purezza“ but jolly nearly so. Italy has more Cabernet Franc that you could possibly imagine (7000 ha). Normally you would be in the Loire or Bordeaux. In middle Italy, in this case in the country’s green heart, Umbria, this variety can produce very seductive yet structured wines. Always with that …

Yum! Possibly not the most professional of tasting notes but this single vineyard Oregon Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley was gorgeous. Totally „a point“ (2017 vintage) and showing that wonderful rotty, undergrowth, sous-bois style that I love. To look at the wine, many would dismiss it: too light, too much browning, obviously not holding up …