Wine of the moment

The new rising star in Piemont

As if Italy did not have enough indigenous grapes, there is now a new white wine star, rising from the ashes like Phoenix. Timorasso. From small beginnings, Walter Massa re-energised this fascinating grape variety so that today 300 hectares are planted in the Colli Tortonesi (which is, rather strangely, called Derthona on many wines labels, the latin name for Tortona). The land grab is gaining traction with a number of the „big names“ in Piemont jumping onto the bandwaggon, such as Vietti, La Spinetta, Oddero and, as pictured, Borgogno. The wine it produces is firm and structured, linear and mineral, yet with peach and citrus fruit. Once the vines become older, there will no doubt be plenty of ageing potential as well. And a recommendation, should you happen to be in the Langhe and come across the Borgogno wine shop in the middle of Barolo. Buy a bottle of the afore-mentioned Timorasso, ask for glasses and then climb the stairs to the panoramic terrace at the top of the building. You will be rewarded with beautiful views over the patchwork vineyards of Barolo and surrounds.