Wine of the moment

Austrian delights

That unmistakable label. An icon. And Schütt, an extraordinary site in Austria’s Wachau, for both Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, with cooling winds from the north giving herbal notes of dill despite the warmth of the 2018 vintage. A mix of apricot and marzipan with some white pepper intermingled with acacia honey. Complex, concentrated and poised, the Schütt Grüner Veltliner Smaragd shows a different facet with every mouthful. With tense acidity and a little hint of bitter orange on the finish. The only possible accompaniment was Backhendel, corn-fed chicken, pan-fired in panko, with remoulade and a stunning Flemming-style potatio salad. Not a green vegetable in sight.