Wine of the moment

Pioneering old vines: Morella Vini

A true love story. Australian girl (not quite from the outback) learns how to make wine in Australia, then comes over to Europe, works for a large Italian wine company, falls in love with her client and moves lock, stock and barrel to the outback of Puglia. Two children, one dog and a small wine estate on the original DOC of Primitivo di Manduria later, Lisa Gilbee Morella has become a pioneer of old Primitivo vines and makes a habit of buying up old parcels nobody else wants to have simply because it is just too much hard work. She even goes a step further and farms them bio-dynamically. Lisa’s wines are a far cry from the commercial Primitivo style to be found in supermarkets. We especially loved the Old Vines 2017 with its pithy cherry stone fruit and notes of dark chocolate and wild herbs, combined with an extraordinary vitality and great textural complexity. Attagirl Lisa.