Austrian cuisine is hearty. It’s mountain food: the sort of calorie intake that is allowed because you have just had a massive calorie outpouring climbing up and down the mountain. This is the savoury version – potato dumplings which, when cut open, reveal pork scratchings in a rich sauce, topped with crisp fried onions. Add some Veltliner Kraut (shredded cabbage cooked with Grüner Veltliner wine) and you are in calorie heaven. And if you have any room left, or you just jogged up and down the mountain again, try an apricot dumpling or two with vanilla sauce for pud.